Food for thought

You know I thought that going to India would be difficult, but I never thought that coming back would be so hard. I am suffering from culture shock in reverse - which apparently is quite common when you come back from an overseas trip.
Things that didn’t annoy me too much before now really grate on me. We just have far too much food - in our cupboards, on our plates and in our bins. We have access to all the food we could ever want or need and to be honest up until now I have pretty much eaten what I wanted rather than eat what I need.
We have so much choice as well. This morning for breakfast I could have had porridge, or cereal, or toast or fruit and yogurt or eggs. The list goes on. In our cupboard there must be at least 7-8 different boxes of cereal and yet I have heard my children moan ‘there’s nothing to eat’. I have now seen children who literally have nothing to eat and I’m afraid my tolerance levels are rather low where this is concerned – beware little Bennetts.
I have a stack of diet books on my shelves, I have tried them all over the years. I know the nutritional value of loads of foods and yet it really hasn’t made much of a dent on me – increasing knowledge has not meant decreasing weight. But something changed in India. I saw people struggling to get food and I also saw very healthy people growing and eating all their own food – food that they have chosen to grow based on its nutritional value. I’ve also seen their portion sizes. These people were slim and healthy and full of vitality. They have a really good understanding of what their body needs, what fuel it needs to make it perform and they cook everything from scratch, so they know exactly what they’re eating.
Now I can’t say I’ve transformed into a great cook since I come back but I can say that I’m now very aware of what I need and don’t need. And unlike before it’s not based upon what I read in a book but what I’ve seen. What it boils down to is that I’m ashamed of how much I ate before, how I took it all for granted. It took a trip to India to make me appreciate the value of food. So this Christmas there won’t be mountains of food in our house – just enough to do us.

Homeward bound

The Indian Garden Lizard – see point 9 below. Pic: Wikipedia

In half an hour I’ll face the madness of Hyderabad traffic and head to the airport for a flight to Dubai. Here are a few lighthearted observations of my time in India:

1. Always carry toilet roll or tissues with you (less said the better)
2. IWC means Indian toilet, EWC means European toilet. You rarely get a choice so when you see EWC, go for it my friend
3. You’re best not asking what the food is, some of the descriptions might put you off. Just eat and enjoy.
4. Curry is wonderful but not always for breakfast, lunch and dinner
5. Always carry Immodium (relates to several points above)
6. Be prepared for cows wandering along in cities as well as in the country
7. If you have a seatbelt and it works, use it
8. It is possible to fit a family of four plus shopping on to a motorbike
9. It’s hard to sleep when there are lizards above your bed and beside it
10. No matter how hard you try, a mosquito will sneak through your mosquito net. Plasters are great at covering up holes in your net
11. Finally – if you ever get the opportunity to go to India, take it.

You can take a girl from the country…

I have just spent the last two days with women farmers near Zaheerabad, a couple of hours drive outside Hyderabad. Or  Hyderamad as my colleague Deborah now calls it.

It was the most wonderful and uplifting experience being with these women. They are illiterate, they never went to school or if they did it was only for a year or two. And yet these women are incredibly knowledgeable about agriculture and have natural business ability.

I can’t really give much more away as I’m committed to writing a piece in Farming Life about these women and how they farm. But I will say that that the success of these farmers is down to their own ability and attitude to make things work and also down to our partner, Deccan Development Society, which through the support of Christian Aid, helped get these farming businesses started.

I would love to invite some of these women to visit us to see how we farm and to share their knowledge. I guess one of the big surprises from this trip is realising that there is so much we can learn from people here in terms of their ability to work together to solve their problems and to secure their own livelihood.

If I had visited these farmers at the start of my trip I would have thought they were extremely poor. Now having seen how other communities live, I can see that they are prospering. They have built sturdier, more weather resistant houses, they have enough food to eat and they are happy being their own bosses. They don’t have much in terms of material possessions but what they do have is a sense of pride, self respect and confidence in their own abilities and that’s not something money can buy.

Culture mix

Hyderabad: A hi-tech city that shows how India is becoming the office of the world. Pic: wiki

Last night we flew from Madurai to Hyderabad. As soon as we arrived I could tell that Hyderabad was different to the other towns and cities we had been in. It appeared a lot more westernised and all the billboards were in English. We drove over a 12km flyover, our partner told us it had been the longest flyover in the world until China built one at 30km length. He seemed rather put out by this but then laughed and said China might be the factory of the world but India is the office of the world. It certainly looked that way last night as we drove past some very high tech businesses.

This morning we saw a very different aspect to the city as we headed into the old part of town to meet with our partner organisation COVA. We saw brightly decorated temples close to beautifully ornate mosques. There were women in burkhas contrasting starkly against the colourful saris of Hindu women.

COVA (Confederation of Voluntary Associations) explained that Hyderabad is a mix of communities – about 53% Hindu, 40% Muslim and the remainder Christians and Sikhs. COVA was formed in the early  nineties in response to the conflict between these communities  in the old city of Hyderabad .

In Hyderabad, there is more of a racial mix compared to the cities we visited earlier. Pic: 123rf.com

Their aim is to bring communities together to campaign for their rights as citizens regardless of their faith. Today they took us to meet groups of young women , all of whom are change activists.

They are a mix of of Hindus and Muslims and they are working closely together to campaign for better access to healthcare and to stop child labour. In one area alone they identified 2000 children working as child labourers. Now 800 of these are attending school but the target is for all of them to attend school.

That is not their only recent success. They have just stopped the illegal sale of alcohol in their area after campaigning and lobbying the Police Commissioner. These young women said they are very happy doing this  volunteer work, it improves their society and their area. They are changing the mindset of local people,  helping them to realise that they can achieve more if they work together.

We met with other activist groups throughout the day, some of them children. These groups not only show that different faiths can live  side by side but they can also lobby for change that will benefit them all. There is still tension within areas but COVA explained that now the police let the local groups resolve issues and resolution is achieved more quickly.

I’ve met several volunteer and activist groups during my trip to India and I’ve been blown away by their tenacity, dedication and spirit. I am now convinced that these groups are the way forward to achieve sustainable change.

Living positively

Tackling the HIV epidemic in India. Pic: Instablogs.com

Today I sat in a room of 25 people or more where I was in the minority not because of my race or religion but because of my health status. I am not HIV positive.

You might think the mood would have been serious and pessimistic but it was far from it.

Over the years there have been a lot of schemes helping those diagnosed with HIV but not everyone was getting the help they needed.

Dalit women in particular were often forgotten about or ignored – another example of discrimination.

Christian Aid’s goals were to reach the unreached and create a sustainable community project. And so with the help of partners, the HIV Volunteer Project was developed. These volunteers are mostly women and each is responsible for several districts.

Sex worker educating others about safe sex. Pic: f06.classes.colgate.edu

One of the ways HIV can be transmitted is from mother to child at birth. however not all pregnant women know their HIV status. One of the volunteers’ jobs is to make sure that every pregnant woman in their districts is tested. If the woman is discovered to be HIV+ then the volunteer ensures that she goes to her check ups and gets the necessary medication.

The volunteer also provides on-going counselling as this is a very traumatic time for the mother-to-be. Some women are newly weds and have had no idea that their husband was infected. Others do know but have been pressured into marriage by their family.

I met a wonderful volunteer today and one of the mothers she helped. This volunteer persuaded the mother to get tested and was there at the birth of her children when her family would not support her.

But the work these volunteers do goes beyond that. They help and advise mothers on nutrition. They also work with the existing health system to make sure that the government works with poorer communities and treats them respectfully.

Before this project started only 7% of pregnant women here went for testing, now it is 98%.

The volunteers we met today were enthusiastic and committed to their role. One woman said that the service was not available when she had her children, who are all HIV+, so she decided to become a volunteer to help prevent other children from becoming infected. Another woman said she was helped by a volunteer herself and because of that her daughter was HIV  negative.

Hugely dedicated volunteers. Pic: Asianscientist.com

When Dean John Mann spoke to Arogya Aram’s director about the dedication of the volunteers, he replied that they were emotionally bonded to their work. They know by helping other women in their districts, they can make a positive difference to their lives and those of their children. It is all about helping each other and providing advice and support without judgement  - I think there are many of us who could learn from these volunteers.

Be grateful for what you’ve got

Madurai, the City of Temples. Pic: wiki.org

Last night we flew from Chennai to Madurai, which is more inland towards the west. The car that I travelled in to the hotel wasn’t air conditioned so we drove along with the windows down. A  warm, balmy breeze blew in our faces and the air was full of strange, exotic smells. I have only been here 4 days but it feels much longer as we have seen so much.

The India that I have seen so far is not a peaceful, tranquil place. It is noisy and crammed with people. We drove through villages that just seemed to run into one another, all of them heaving as the locals went about their business. It doesn’t seem to matter what time of day it is or what day it is, everyone seems to be going somewhere.

The driving was as chaotic in Madurai as it was in Delhi and Chennai – a constant barrage of horns and flashing lights. There must be some sort of driving code but I’ve no idea what it is. Who dares wins perhaps. Every street was littered with rubbish, there are no street cleaners in India and it is truly shocking to see how much filth and waste is lying about.

Madurai Cow Pic:www.willandloulou.blogspot.co.uk

Cows wandered down the road, some were tied up at the side. I have seen more cows in the city than in the country.

At one point we drove past a field where a body was burning on a funeral pyre with just one lone man standing beside it.

At 5am this morning I was woken by the sound of devotional music being blasted in the corridors of the hotel.

The horn blasting started up then too so 5am is obviously getting up time here.

We spent the day with our partner Arogya Agam, meaning Place of Health.

AA works with marginalized and excluded people on human rights issues and community health projects.

These marginalized people tend to be from lower castes such as Dalits and can also be subgroups within these castes.

We went to visit some  Dalit families – there is a type of caste system within the Dalit caste and the families we visited were one of the lowest in the system. I have seen poverty before on TV but I still wasn’t prepared for the shock of seeing how these people live.

They live in either one roomed shacks or one roomed houses. The shacks are basically bits of wood tied together with a roof of dried branches and leaves. Most of the one roomed houses have suffered storm damage and are unsafe to live in. Those that are lived in are shared by 4 families.  All the houses leak so when it rains the families sleep outside in case the roof caves in.

We asked the woman’s representative what their biggest issues were and she said they had no burial ground. As they are Dalits and are considered ‘untouchable’, they cannot bury their dead alongside any other community . If anyone dies they have to find a ditch or a bit of unidentified land to bury them in.

Madurai: a bustling city but work is hard to find if you’re a Dalit. Pic: 123rf.com

They told us that they get about 60 days of work a year as agricultural labourers for dominant castes.

The men earn 250 rupees a day (just over 3 pounds) and the women 100 rupees a day (about 80p).

This money has to last them all year – it has to feed and clothe them and pay for everything else they might need.

They mostly live on a diet of rice porridge. All of them were thin and we could see signs of malnutrition among some of the women. There is no primary health care in the village.

They have a few scrawny cows and goats which they rely on for milk.  All the animals live alongside them. There is no electricity and their homes are dark even during the day. They get water from a common tap but there are no toilet facilities, they have to go into the trees. I can only imagine how difficult it must be to live day after day in these conditions.

Arogya Agam is working with this community and others to help them campaign for their rights. These communities are being discriminated against – they do not get access to the same services as higher castes, they cannot get work because of their caste and they are excluded from most basic amenities because of their caste. The self help groups and Federations that have been set up as a result of AA’s work, show that this is the best way forward to create lasting change. These groups not only make change happen they also help the Dalit community feel better about themselves.

It was difficult to see how those families lived  but it has made me and my team even more determined to support these communities and it has also made me very grateful for the things I take for granted.

Standing strong

In order for tales of atrocities against them to be heard, the Dalit community needs to stand strong. (Pic from The Guardian)

On Saturday morning, our partner SASY took us to meet some Dalits from various rural communities around the Pondicherry area.

They had come to share their stories with us – stories of discrimination, torture, murder and injustice. The mood was sombre as each person described the atrocities that had happened to them and their families.

In rural communities there are no schools for older children, so many have to leave their families and stay in hostels close to where the schools are. Young Dalits in these hostels are often discriminated against and are victims of violence.

We heard how one couple were told that their 17 year old son had committed suicide. This was not the first Dalit ‘suicide’ in a hostel. They were not allowed to see their son’s body and, because they were Dalits, there was no investigation by the school and no police enquiry. The case was closed.

Another young woman quietly told us how her husband was violently taken from their home one night. He was tortured and killed. Once again there was no enquiry or investigation.

Although these stories were told in a language I did not understand, the language of pain and sadness is easily translated. I could see the anguish in these people’s eyes and faces but I could also see their strength and determination to fight for justice.

That’s where SASY, Christian Aid’s partner comes in. SASY is working with these families and others to make sure that their cases are investigated and that Dalit victims and survivors see justice done.

As we were leaving, Kashturi – whose husband was killed – grasped my hand and whispered in English: ‘Ravi, my husband was called Ravi’. It was a very poignant moment. I was humbled by Kashturi’s quiet dignity and inner strength. She is determined to get justice for Ravi and hopefully, with support from SASY and Christian Aid funding, that will happen.

When given the opportunities, Dalit communities prove themselves eager and successful in a range of self-help businesses and initiatives. Pic courtesy of our partner ActAlliance.

In a complete contrast to the morning’s meeting we went to visit another SASY project – this time a cashew nut processing business.

This business is run by a Board of 10 Directors, all of them Dalit women.

They were definitely the most enthusiastic and vibrant group of directors I have ever met.

They told us how running the business had changed their lives. One woman had never left her village and surrounding area before and now she travels all over India in her sales and marketing role. All the women are knowledgeable about all areas of the business world – finance, sales, marketing, HR, quality control and so on.

Their status has changed within their community. They now get more respect because not only are they bringing more money in to their families but they’re also employing local people too.

Their passion and enthusiasm for their work was infectious. Before too long they were asking about ideas on how they could expand and become more efficient. I came away motivated and inspired, wondering if similar businesses could be set up in other Dalit communities.

The third group of people we met on Saturday were representatives of a Men’s Federation and a Women’s Federation. They told us how SASY, supported by Christian Aid, encouraged small groups of Dalit men and women to form self help groups that later became the larger Federations.

They have now formed committees within these Federations with various roles and responsibilities, all of which are dedicated to improving the lives and rights of Dalits within the area. For example, as ‘untouchables’ Dalits may not receive blood from other castes, so the men overcame the problem by setting up their own blood donation group.

During the 4 hour drive back to Chennai I had time to think over all that I had seen and heard throughout the day. It was an emotional day, at times very sad but it was also really uplifting and motivating to hear how our partner SASY is working with the Dalit community to really change their lives. That inspired us all to keep on supporting these people further.

From North to South

We flew 1,300 miles south to Chennai

I can’t quite believe how much we pack into each day. It’s after 11pm and I’ve been up since 4am, having flown from Delhi in the North to Chennai in the South. So tonight’s blog will be shorter not just because of how long I’ve been on the go but because I’m mentally and emotionally trying to process what I saw and heard.

Today we met our partner SASY, who work on human rights issues on behalf of Dalits. As you probably know, there is a caste system in India which has been in existence for hundreds of years. Dalits are outside the caste system and are referred to as ‘the untouchables‘ or ‘the non humans’.

SASY briefed us on the issues and what they are doing to help bring change as a result of Christian Aid’s support. The stories are horrific, it is unbelievable to think that people are treated this way. But it only really hit home when we went to visit a Dalit community to hear firsthand what their life is like.

As we drove to the village I was struck by two things: the beautiful, lush, green countryside and the shacks and huts on the sides of the roads. I was really taken aback by how these people lived. I assumed these were Dalit communities only to be told that Dalits were not ‘allowed’ to live on the main street as they called it. Their villages were set further back, in more remote areas with poorer roads.

I didn’t speak much for the rest of the journey – I was worried about what I would see and how I would react. I can’t really talk about it here just now, but what I can say is that I met some wonderful people, who told us all about what has happened to their community – arson, murder, discrimination, violent attacks and the list goes on.

I sat with their children, who told me what they wanted to be when they grow up – a doctor, an engineer, a computer engineer. They had no shoes but they had dreams like every child does. I also believe they have the ability.

Dalit children deserve the right to pursue their dreams

What they need and deserve is the right to pursue their dreams regardless of cast. The right to be seen as human and the right to be treated as equals. We have got to support them achieve those rights.

First impressions of Delhi

I’ve only been here a few hours and my senses are overloaded.

The first thing I noticed was the fragrance of exotic spices wafting through the airport, closely followed by a cacophony of car horns all blasting at the one time totally indiscriminately. The air was hazy and dusty and I could actually taste the grittiness of it on my tongue.

Then came the ride to our hostel. As far as I could tell, no one takes a blind bit of notice of any road signs or lane markings.

Typical traffic scene here in Delhi

We were on a motorway with four marked lanes but obviously locals have discovered that if you fold in your wing mirrors you can fit 6 cars across the lanes. That doesn’t include the cyclists, the motorbikes or the families walking nonchalantly alongside the traffic. At one point we saw a car reversing speedily towards us to try and get off at the right exit. Our lovely driver did not seem at all perturbed by any of these goings on.

What surprised me the most was the amount of greenery, beautiful trees, pink, red and yellow blossoms and hundreds of plants in pots.

Makeshift camps near the train station in Delhi

But we didn’t have to go far to see disturbing sights, beggars, street children, families living  in makeshift camps.

I’m  now sitting in Christian Aid’s office preparing for tomorrow’s trip to Chennai. We’ll see what that brings.

To do or not to do – that is the question.

As a compulsive list maker I have finally come to the conclusion that to do lists are not there to help me get organised but to make me feel stressed and inadequate.

In 2 days time I head to India and at the moment instead of focusing on what I’m going to see and do there I’m adding more items to my ‘to do before I go’ list. Is it really that important if I don’t get the rest of my winter pansies planted out? No. Do I really need to buy headache tablets before I go? Actually yes, and I should probably buy some for my husband as well. He’ll no doubt need them more than I will.

I have always travelled with my work so the children are well used to me being away. But I haven’t been on a long trip since before the children were born, which means we are all feeling a bit uneasy and apprehensive about me leaving.

My youngest son has been following me around like a shadow for the last few days. He knows I will miss his seventh birthday.  I’m also going to be away for Judy’s 2^nd transfer test but thankfully she is too laid back to be bothered. I’m the one who’s uncomfortable with it. Likewise I won’t be around for Louis, who should be revising for his exams. Notice how I say ‘should be revising’, I know that if I’m not there he will find lots of other important (and essentially useless) things to do instead of studying.

But you know what, they will all be fine. This is simply me in typical mother mode, thinking that everything will fall apart when I leave, that unless I’m there things won’t get done properly. What a load of rubbish. Everything will get done that needs to get done. It will not be done the way I do it, but it doesn’t mean it’s not right (believe me when I say it has taken me a long time to finally admit that).

We all need a support network

So despite my slight nervousness about leaving the children and my greater nervousness about what state the house might be in when I come back, I know that it’ll all work out fine because I am lucky enough to have a great support network around me. I just couldn’t do this job without it.

All of which has made me realise that Christian Aid and our partners are the only support network for the people in India that we are going to see.

And now instead of thinking of my to do list, I am getting excited about seeing that support first hand and finding out what else we can do to help. I’ll keep you posted from India.